Monday, August 27, 2007

Home at last

We made it home at midnight on Thursday, 4 hours after we were supposed to.

We played with the dogs and then went to bed as we had to run Hood 2 Coast on Friday. For those of you who don't know what that it is, it is a 197 mile relay from Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood to Seaside Oregon. It takes 2 days and you run 3 times for ~15 to ~18 miles total.

We are now recovering from that.

The photos have been posted for our Haute Route trip, I will add captions as i get time.

Monday, August 20, 2007

Grachen > Zermatt

Today was supposed to be the second to last day, we were going to walk up to the Europahut and then down to Zermatt tomorrow. We checked the weather and it was going to be cold (6c) and raining all day today and tomorrow, above 2000m (which is where we were going to spend all of our time). We opted for the more dry option of finishing our trek through the valley, to Zermatt.

After breakfast we caught the bus back to St. Niklaus and then headed out for the last 4 hours.

About an 1.5 in to, my hip and knee were really bothering me and Kevin was tired of walking, so we caught the train to Zermatt.

Once in Zermatt, we checked in to the bag yet (it was supposed to arrive on Friday, today is Monday). We ate a little, drank a little and waited for the post office to reopen at 2 to check on it.

Turns out we need the package number off of the receipt (which we probably threw away). If it doesn't arrive tomorrow before we leave, we will ask the hotel to ship it to us...I am sure that will be cheap.

Our tentative plan is to head to Lausanne tomorrow, then Geneva-London the next day. We are planning on meeting Paul in London for a pint and then head home on Thursday.

Its been a long, great walk. We both feel like we need a vacation from our vacation....and can't wait to see our photos.

Hopefully that bag will turn up.....

St. Niklaus > Grachen

This was supposed to be a short day, we woke up late, ate breakfast and headed up hill. We would have a 1.5 hour walk, UP a steep path. We actually walked about 30 minutes past our hotel so then we had to head back down to it. We checked in, showered and took a long nap. After the nap we went looking for food. Evidently, no one served food between 2 & 6, in Grachen. So we drank beer, I called Dad and we headed back to the hotel for another nap before dinner.

Today was all about staying off of our feet.

Dinner wasn't very good, but it was food, and then we went to bed early.

Gruben > St. Niklaus

Today was a long up hill. The 2 weeks of walking were really starting to taking a toll on us. When we were about 600 vertical meters from the top, we started taking a break every time we would gain 100 m. Kevin also got an extra 30 minutes of walking in, as when we were 20 minutes from the start, we realized that we had forgot the guidebook at the hotel.. So he went back and got it.

Once we crossed the last pass of the trip, we headed down, and then up in to a boulder field that would never end. Eventuall (2.5 hours later) we walked down in to Jungen. What do you know, there is another cable car, and you can guess what we were going to do.... we were not up for another 1.5 hour steep down hill.

Once in St. Niklaus we found our hotel, showered, did laundry in the sink and then headed for dinner. It was really good.

We also ran into the Kiwis for the last time at dinner. They were headed to the Europahut the next day where we were going to take a "rest" day and only do a 2 hour walk to the next town and then head to the Europahut the next day.

Zinal > Gruben

We switched roles on this stage. I was slow, Kevin was faster. It was cloudy all day, but didn't rain. It was a long climb up to the Forclatta (another col). It was also very windy and cold at the top, all I wanted to do was rush down so I could warm up. This is our first German speaking valley...I don't expect to be able to understand a single word they say....should be intertaining.

Walking down from the col, we walked through a sheep ranch (literally, through their pens), down to a road. We caught up to the Kiwis, with the knees of steel. Our feet have hurt for the last hour (at least) of every day... I kept expecting this to go away, but it never did.

We both ran out of water as we finished the death march into town. The hotel was pretty nice, except that the bathroom was down the hall.

We ate dinner with Nigel, who we didn't expect to see again as he was going to walk past St. Niklaus, to get a head start on the Eurpoweg.

Cabane de Moiry to Zinal

We had a crappy breakfast - stale bread and jam....

We met a Canadian couple that were going to finish today - in Arolla. They were headed backwards after weather had delayed them halfway through.

We lost the trail that we were supposed to take to the Barrage de Moiry, so we cut down to the road and walked along it until we ran in to the trail again. We ran into a restaurant where we had a large pseudo breakfast. We then headed up for the 600 meters to the top. It was a nice trail, grassy, smooth and lots of long switch backs. We had also decided that we would take the cable car down from the ski resort to Zinal. Neither of our knees were up to the 1000m knee pounding descent.

We had an incredible view from the top of the col, except for some of the clouds. And we waved to Wim and Bararab (the Kiwis) as we were headed down in the cable car. They must have knees of steel.

We really wanted to do laundry when we got in to town, real laundry. So Kevin started calling the Tourist Office and found a gentleman who runs an apartment complex who would let us use his machines.....Ahhh fresh clothes.

We had dinner (it was long and good!) at a restaurant that was recommended by Benoist Germann (the laundry guy).

La Sage > Cabane de Moiry

"Another 1600m day in the bag. It went fast enough. We hiked from about 9am to 4pm, including lunch and breaks. I felt slow today... or else Dana was fast. I was dragging behind all daz. We made the col tsate in 3 hours and then it was straight down for an hour. We didn't have any food left so we had to make it down the hill to a snack shop. After lunch we had 400 more mreter to climb. )it took us 1 hour 45 mnutes) It was very crowded, for you Oregoniansé It was like Multnohmah falls. except every one said hello to each other. Dana and I must have said 'bonjour' 200 times. The cabane is nice. It is right on the Moiry Glacier and ice fall. I hope the food is good. The problems with the place are: no shower, bathrooms are outside, and thez have us packed in like a middle ages ship. Sleeping tonight will be a lot like riding Portland metro buses during rush hour." --- Kevin.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Arolla > La Sage

Well, this little 4 hour hike proved to be harder then it looked. It only took us about 4 hours, but it was a long 4 hours.

We walked past a pristine blue lake that had many people sunning themselves near, then we headed down to a little bar where Kevin had the worst hamburger possible. It related it to a burger from 7-11, only worse. We then headed down for the next several hours. At Les Haudiers (sp?) we then headed up, for what would be come a death march. We ended up in a woman's backyard, she directed us to the trail and we continued up.

Once in Le Chable, we checked in to our Dortoir. They laughed when we said we had a reservation...come to find out we were the only ones on the entire floor. I think the only other guest we would meet would be a strange guy from Pennslyvania.

The "hotel" was very creeky, you walked as quietly as you could incase the place came crashing down.

The dinner was horrible, but at least they served dessert, for Kevin's birthday.

We met Roger, from Pennsylvania. He was kind of strange, he planned to hike from Arolla to Zermatt, in sandals. His pack weighed about 30 pounds and was filled with stuff like a tent, sleeping bag and camping stuff....sounded like a lot of stuff he wouldn't need. Not to mention he was in pretty bad shape from the hike from Arolla. Granted I said it was harder then what we expected, but not nearly as hard as what we had done before or were expecting later.

Kevin shipped his extra backpack from Arolla to Zermatt, for a whooping 14 francs...we will see if it actually arrives.

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Cabane Prafleuri > Arolla

The day started out with a climb up a col to 2800m (from 2600m). The view was of a deep valley now filled by a dam held glacier lake. It was supposed to rain this morning, but so far, no sign of it.

We walked down to the lake and along it for about 2 hours. We saw lots of climbers and day hikers. The climbers must have been coming down from Mont Blanc Cheilon. We stopped for lunch at the end of the lake, which is where I learned I wouldn't have to cross the bridge--something I was really not looking forward to. Instead we would avoid the traverse across the steep slope covered in scree and head to the Cabane Dix, cross the glacier and then go up the ladders.

We could look over on to the other side of the canyon and see Alex & Paul traversing the scree, I was glad to be on the side I was on.

It was a long slow climb to the Cabane. We kept expecting it to be just over the next little ridge, turns out we first had to climb to 2900m+ and then down to the cabane. We stopped for hot chocolate and then headed down to the glacier. We crossed a boulder field on either side of it and then scrambled up to the ladders.

The ladders are 3 iron ladders bolted to the rock face (near vertical). They are about 50 feet tall. At one point, near the top, you have to get off of one ladder on to a little rock ledge and then get on to the last ladder. We waited for a family to come down them (with a rope). Then it was our turn. I went first, I wore my gloves for fear the ladder would get cold and then I wouldn't be able to feel my fingers. I took them off when I switched ladders near the top -- my hands were sweating and the bars were actually warm. The long middle ladder shook a little and it seemed like a really long way to the top. When I switched ladders, I took the gloves off. I have never been so happy to be at the top of anything! Kevin came up after I did. We took some pictures, caught our breath and then headed down to Arolla. It was about 2 hours down hill. It was pleasant at first, but then turned into a death march. About 30 minutes above the town we heard a band...then we saw them when we got in to town.

Alex, Paul & Nigel met us with beer. That was a welcome sight! Turns out we were the only ones to take the ladders. They made it in 6.5 hours, we made it in about 8 (should have taken us 6.5 - 7.5), so not too bad.

After the beer we checked in, picked up Kevin's bag (a welcome sight - 9 days later), showered, did laundry and then headed out for dinner with Alex & Paul. Today was their last day.

Cabane Mont Fort > Cabane Prafleuri


The way around the Col Termin and over to Col de Louvie sucked ass. Most of the way we had to traverse a steep slope and post hole through thigh high snow. What was supposed to take 3 hours and 15 minutes, actually took 5 hours 30 minutes. Where there was only a little snow on the trail we would sometimes slip...Looking back at the trail you could see how steep the slop was...It was as mentally tiring as it was physically.

However, the view was spectacular. The weather was great and we saw a lot of wildlife - Chamois or Ibex or Steinbach? " -- Kevin

Between Col de Louive and Col Prafleuri it was a lot of boulder scrambling as we crossed a moraine below a couple of glaciers. Then we had to climb up to the Col (pass) on boulders and snow.

Anne smashed his toe under a 2 ton boulder, we stopped to check out the damage, when he took his sock off, the toenail went with it. Alex doctored it the best she could (the surgeon in the group).

We met a couple for New Zealand at dinner. This is their 3rd trip on the Haute Route.

I started reading about tomorrow, cable bridges & ladders --- both of which I am not looking forward to. Hopefully the day after that will be easier, my nerves are shot.

It took us 8 hours 45 minutes - not counting breaks. It should have taken us 6.5 hours.

Le Chable > Cabane du Mont Fort

"We slept a little late... until about 7:30am. I took a shower and then we headed to breakfast, which was quite small, a little bread with butter and jam, and coffee. Dana's hot chocolate wasnàt too hot. Alex and Paul decided to take the cable car and then climb above the cabin. We we headed off. The trail was easz to follow, but it was UP UP UP UP. The guide book mentions all the attractions, including the little church (which had a wedding going on). The BBQ joint. The restaurant in Clambin (which was closed). We ate the bread, cheese & sausage we had bought in Le Chable. It was a nice lunch break in the sun with a panoramic view of the Bagnes valley.

Near Clambin we met a nice fellow from Geneva...He was an artist wandering the trails looking for inspiration. He talked a lot about how great the area was, except for Verbeir which he said was shit now that every one was building 5 million dollar homes and looking down their noses at every one. He was very entertaining.

After Clambin it was more UP UP UP UP. Eventually getting to a ski area that was filled with mountain bikers. We finally saw the signs directing us to the cabin - 50 minutes away. It actually took a long 70 minutes. Right before we got to the cabin we met a couple of dutch guys (Anne and Pepain). They had spotted a marmot and pointed it out to us. Very Cool! Finally we made it to the cabin. We had spaghetti ( a lot of it) and beer and wine. It was a fun evening.

We also met a parisian who writes for a golf magazine and had visited Portland to write an article about Nike Golf.

The bad news came in that our next day may have some weather issues. Deep snow and afternoon thunderstorms. We are counting on the snow being less deep and we are going to do it as a group (the three brits - Alex, Paul & Nigel, the two dutch - Anne & Pepain, and us). It may be a tough day so we are going to get an early start. We went to bed at 9:30, breakfast at 6, leave at 7.

It tooks us 6.5 hours to get to Cabane Mont Fort, including most of our breaks." -- Kevin

Champex > Le Chable

We started out after a nice leisurely morning. I updated the blog and then we packed our now dry clothes. We wakled through the town, by the lake, to the trail. We had a couple of glimpses of mountains and it promised to not rain on us. Todays walk was nothing but really steep down hill. We walked through fields and little villages to Sembracher. Along the waz we ran in to a man walking his two dogs, 1 puppy and 1 older one. We chatted about the weather and played with is puppy before moving on. We had planned to stop in Sembracher for lunch but took a wrong turn and instead stayed on the trail for Le Chable. When we figured out that we had taken a wrong turn it was too late to turn back so we split Kevin's Mars bar and headed up the trail. There was only one up hill section - Kevin made me count to 100 in french so the hill went by really fast.

When we got to Le Chable we stopped at the first restaurant that we found, which was a really nice place and our waiter was from Quebec. We chatted about the weather and where we were headed. After lunch we headed to our hotel in Villette (just across the river). We showered, did laundry and took a nice long nap. After the nap we wandered around town a little, bought some chocolate, new (better) gloves for me and then headed to the hotel restaurant-bar for a beer and fries. Alex and Paul showed up and we had dinner. Dinner was horse, i was full from the beer, fries and soup. I tried it anyway, it was chewy and really tasted a little like beef. Now I can say I have had it and don't need to have it again.

After dinner we headed to the two bars in town - Rosbef (an english bar) or Manhattan (an american one). Manhattan looked more lively so we went there and had a beer and played foosball. At ten we headed back to the hotel and went to bed.

Friday, August 10, 2007

Trient > Champex

Stage 3:
We ate breakfast with Alex & Paul. Last night we had heard mention of snow falling. This morning we debated either going on the standard route to Fenetre d' Arpette (2665m) or doing a lower alternate route, Apage de Bovine (2000m). Alex asked some of the locals and the response was a lot of head shaking, finger wagging and something about going down on your ass. We decided it would be wise to go the alternate route. Before heading out we picked up some sausage and cheese to go with the half of loaf of bread Alex & Paul shared with us. We donned our rain gear and headed out in to the rain (it would rain all day). It was definately a great day for Gore-Tex. It was a 2 and half hour climb past For de la claz on our way to Bovine, at 2200 feet. Alpage de Bovine is a little farm (three stone buildings) surrounded by cows. You can get lunch hear and dry off, which we did. The onion soup, bread, cheese and hot chocolate hit the spot. After warming up a little Kevin and I headed on with out Alex & Paul (they were going to give the weather a little more time). We put our down vests on under our jackets and added fleece hats and gloves - it was now snowing. We would be headed downhill for the next 2.5 hours. The trail was wet but not bad at first, but then turned into a streambed that was very steep. It was like walking down stone & tree root steps. There were a couple of stream crossings (Kevin got wet on one of them). I am glad that I was able to tape my knee, as this was going to be hard on it.

We eventually made it to a gravel path and then a paved road. We stopped to verify directions when a car pulled up. He asked if we were going to Champex and then pointed in the right direction. He then offered us a ride, we must have looked like drowned rats -- it was still raining.

We headed up hill for our last 50 minutes of the day. We came a long a cow in the creek, just standing there. We also walked past a lot of houses and dreamed of being able to dry off.

Eventually we made it to Champex and our hotel. It is dormitory/bunk style. We have the two at the end of the room -- with the heater. I promptly got out the clothes line and cranked up the heat. We both fell asleep for a little while and then headed down to see if we could find someplace to do laundry -- no such luck. So, back up stairs to rotate clothes on the heater. Kevin was still dealing with his luggage, it appears to be stuck somewhere, maybe Geneva. Hopefully they can get it to us in Le Chable (the next stop), otherwise it will have to meet us in 3 days, as the two nights after Le Chable are mountain huts.

It looks like we won't have any rain on Friday, so maybe we will have some nice views. Evidently today we should have been able to see Mont Blanc and also down in to the valley to Martigny.

I don't know if we will have internet in Le Chable, so this may be the last post until Monday night.

Even with the rain and the luggage issues, the trip has been worth it!

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Chamonix > Argentiere > Trient

We were able to replace most of the "required" gear for Kevin, in Chamonix. I picked up a jacket too. We shoved every thing into Kevin's new backpack and headed for Argentiere in the rain. It was a pleasant hike, about 1/3 of the way in we headed up hill and started trading the pack back and forth.

Stage 1: Chamonix to Argentiere
"Well, its 7:45 and we just woke up in Argentiere. Its pouring down rain so we are not very motivated to get started. Dana is on the phone dealing with British Airways and the courier that is supposedlz bringing us her backpack. It would be nice to get her pack this morning because it has all of her rain clothes in it. My pack, meanwhile, is still 'god knows where'. My new gear will suffice I guess. Last night we hiked into town soaking wet and found our hotel. A young woman brought us straight to our room (and made fun of us for taking up so much space in the elevator). We didn't have to sign any paperwork which seemed weird to me. We then found a pharmacz and some dinner. Porkchops, potatoes, green beans, and beer. I'll let Dana tell you about the strawberries" -- Kevin.

Kevin is right, the strawberries were excellant, I don't think that I have ever had ones that tasted that good. The hike was a nice start, luckily my new shoes didn't give me any blisters on the uphill part. After dinner, I took a hot bath (which I promptly fell asleep in).

Stage 2: Argentiere to Trient
As we were hiking along, we worked on my french, which really meant numbers and a song about plucking the head, beak and eyes off of a bird. The walk to Le Tour was pleasant enough. No rain and we traded the pack every 30 minutes. Once in Le Tour we headed up the ski slope to Charamillon. Ski slopes were not made to be walked up. At Charamillon (a ski lodge) we stopped for lunch. We donned our "rain gear", or at least as much as we had, and headed up to Col de Balme. I can only imagine the views that you get on this when there are no clouds. Needless to say, we had clouds....and rain ---and i had no rain gear (I did pick up a pair of pants in Argentiere). At Col de Balme we had hot chocolate and coffee. When we started we headed out in to the cloud break and no rain. Down we went. When we leveled out I took the pack from Kevin (he carried it on the down hill to save my knee). It was raining so hard that we walked into town with our heads bent over, into the rain.

Once at the hostel, we each called about our baggage. Kevin's was finally found. We need to call them back tomorrow to confirm the delivery location. Mine was supposedly signed for here at the hostel. The host does't know anything about. We met an English couple (Peter & Alex). Alex was able to translate for us for more information on the bag. We had several beers and then dinner. Right before dinner, someone walked in with my bag. I have never been so happy to see another bag. It was missing my trekking poles (british airways will be paying for those). We made it to Trient in 4:45 minutes (according to the guide book it should have taken us 5 to 5:30 hours). Not bad for being a rainy day.

Tuesday, August 07, 2007

Geneva > Chamonix

When I woke up this morning I immediately checked on the status of my bag, online. I saw the magic words "received at airport". I called to confirm and update the location I needed it delivered to. The bag was at Heathrow this morning at 7am and we were planned to head to Chamonix at 9am. I asked them to either send it to the hotel in Argentiere or Trient. I have no problem walking from Chamonix to Argentiere in flip flops (about 2 hours), but I am a little worried about Trient. Especially since we lost the guide book in Kevin's bag.

We couldn't call on Kevin's until 1pm Central Europe time so we would have to wait and see on that one.

We each had a croissant, orange juice & coffee for breakfast and headed for the train station. Along the way we found a little store to buy Kevin a cheap duffel bag to carry his shoes, coat, pants & shirt in (the two plastic shopping bags just weren't working).

We took the train to Martigny and then switched to a really local train that would take us up to Chamonix. About 30 minutes before Martigny our stomaches really started growling. We would have to wait until Chamonix for food. The train ride from Martigny was amazing. I can only imagine what the views would have been like if there were no clouds or fog. Every now and then you would get a peak down into the valley, it was truly amazing.

Once in Chamonix we headed for lunch....we just happened to pick the a cafe that took neither credit cards or Swiss Francs. Kevin went to try to get Euros, but had problems with the ATM card. We think it is because we took out the max on Monday our time and it is still Monday US time.. not sure. Hopefully it works tomorrow in Argentiere.

After lunch we went to find a book store (for a new guide book, maps) and a couple of stores to re-outfit us. This place is crazy ---- expensive and crowded...and the stores take an 1.5 hour lunch break. We figured out what we would need to get me along until I had my bag (shoes & a jacket) and figured out what Kevin "had to have", which is very close to everything he brought. Now for the shopping spree, I found a 2007 edition of Kev Reynolds Haute Route guidebook (our lost one was 2001) and I got the two maps we would need. Next we headed for a camera store to get another charger for the camera (the old one is in Kevin's bag). She said she might have one this afternoon and to come back at 5...we can't figure that out, maybe there is an afternoon shipment. Then we were on to a phone store to get a new charger (the original is in my bag but my blackberry is almost dead and we are going to need it before I can get my bag back). We headed to an internet cafe to get out of the rain, update the blog and charge the blackberry. Next we are headed for a couple of outdoor stores (once they get back from their lunch breaks) and then on to Argentiere.

More later.

Monday, August 06, 2007

Portland > London > Geneva

Well, we both had a couple of challenge ridden days of travel.

Kevin left Portland at 8:30 for Las Vegas, then to Philadelphia and then on to London. He got lucky from Las Vegas to Philadelphia. "From Vegas to Philadelphia I was in line to try to volunteer for the exit row (I was in a middle seat). The person behind me told me that they had just paged me because someone in first class wanted to trade seats with me. WOW. 5 minutes later I was sipping a bloody mary." He almost didn't make the flight the connection in Philadelphia and then wasn't able to sleep on the plane. He made it to London around 9:30. Turns out US Airways lost his bag (yes his backpack with everything in it). We were supposed to meet at Westminster Abbey, so he headed downtown. He was able to see the church and the side entrance to Buckingham Palace.

My flight from Seattle to London was delayed so I didn't get in to London until 12:30. I was able to get about 5 hours of sleep on the plane. Turns out, British Airways lost my bag too. (Yes, my backpack with everything in it). At this point, it is too late to meet Kevin at Westminster Abbey, so he headed to Paddington Station to meet me there.

We arranged for the airlines to send our bags to our hostel in Geneva and then headed to Kings Cross Station to catch the train to Luton airport for our flight to Geneva. We stopped for a pint outside the train station (it was the least I could do for my brief visit to London). Hopefully I will be able to see a little more of it at the end of our trip.

The train to Luton was only supposed to take 25 minutes, it was more like an hour. Once there we got to go to the front of the line to check in (it was a fast check in since we didin't have any lugguage -- Kevin had his coat, I had a little "ditty" bag with my credit cards, passport and blackberry). Security was a nightmare, I have never see a line so long...oh yea, we checked in at 5:55 and our plane was supposed to start boarding at 5:55. Needless to say, after we made it through secuirty it was 6:15 and our plane was delayed. We finally got on the plane and headed to Geneva. Easyjet is definately a no-nonsense airline, I think it is even more sparse then Southwest. Once in Geneva we caught a cab to the hostel (we couldn't get any of our credit cards to work at the trainstop at the airport). We showered and washed our clothes in the sink and then crashed (at 1 am).

Monday morning we slept in and then headed to the train station to buy our tickets for Chamonix on Tuesday. We wondered around a little, bought some pjs for me, shorts & crocs for Kevin. Lunch was a beer and a sandwich. It is really warm here so at 2:30 we headed for the hostel for a shower and a nap...after we checked on our flights.

Kevin called on his bag, it doesn't look promising that it will make it to Geneva before we leave tomorrow at 9 for Chamonix. He then called on mine. We are both in some sort of baggage twilight zone, neither airline knows where either bag is and we are supposed to call back in 24 hours -- at which point we will be in Chamonix. If they don't make it here, our next option for them is to have them delivered to our hotel in Argentiere. Its a good thing it is a easy 2 hour "valley walk" from Chamonix to Argentiere.

Now for another shower, a nap and maybe a cheap little backpack purchase (to carry what little belongings we have from Chamonix to Argentiere).

After the shower and a nap we headed back out for dinner and more sights.

There isn't much to see in Geneva, there seems to be some sort of festival going on so we walked through that and then found a bar that was serving pizza. After dinner we walked up the hill to Notre Dame and then back towards the hostel. Along the way we each had an ice cream cone. We got back to our hotel around 10pm. We laid around pondering what to do about the gear we would need to do this trip. The crappy thing about losing the bags is that we packed really light so we only brought what we would need, and we lost all of it. I don't even have a coat, socks or my asthma medicine.

We finally fell a sleep around 10:30 and then both woke up at 11:30. (you have to love jet lag). We laid awake until 3 and then were able to go back to sleep for until 6ish.